This is how artist Cathy Dailey interpreted the concept of C4S:
"In my imagination the stray cats and dogs are looking at the C4S Team riding by and seeing the cyclists gives them hope that, eventually, they too will have someone to love them and take them in..."
The original measures 10 1/2 x 11 inches and Cathy executed the drawing using colored pencils and fine tip black pen on textured white art paper. All of us at C4S are extremely grateful to Cathy for her contribution to this great cause.
"Third world nations", often implying that our system is consistently better...
... I get ready to leave since I feel that in Guadalajara it is mission accomplished for me...
That's right, the Estados Unidos de Mexico is a federation of states just like the USA...
It is a spectacular day and I stroll through the "Centro" sipping a smoothie and enjoying the sites...
An other great city where you can safely wander about...
... taking in the colonial architecture which is often mixed with...
... more modern buildings as well as...
... historical landmarks...
As I walk back in the general direction of the hotel I assess the first leg of this amazing journey...
... after about 3,000 kilometers of big skies and ancient cities I am now one day away from the main event in the capital...
... where I will meet with GEPDA and...
... GRUPO CICLO-VIdA to once again say "Yes to bicycles!" and "No to homeless pets!"...
Mexico City! Over 20 million people live in this huge metropolis that can be quite intimidating to the newcomer...
... still, thanks to the excellent directions sent to me by Kodiak of GRUPO CICLO-VIdA, my ride in from Toluca is not only pain free, but also a lot of fun.
After weaving through traffic (surprisingly easy to negotiate) for a while, I quickly find...
... the Auditorium where I am to meet with Daniela of GEPDA who invited me to stay with her while in Mexico City...
... as I wait for Daniela, I notice a bicycle kiosk across the street so I go over to investigate...
... these bicycles are free to the public and there is a bike path around the Auditorium and the neighboring park where you can safely ride...
... as long as you follow a few basic rules, wear a helmet and ride responsibly...
... Run into a snag? No worries, your friendly mechanic is on duty to give you a hand and put you back on the path in no time! As far as breakdowns are concerned my personal ride has been totally uneventful so far: not even a "What the flat?!" moment in over 3,000 trouble free kilometers! I can only hope it will stay this way...
After hooking up with Dani and Ana Karla of GEPDA we stroll through the center, grab some excellent Libanese food and...
... simply hang out talking about Sunday's event where big crowds are expected...
... the sun is starting to set and I find myself relaxing with my new friends. This monument honors the coyote, symbol of the region of Coyoacan...
...we chat with many dog owners: meet Alam, which means "Small puppy" in the native Nahuatl language...
Full moon in Mexico City: as we head back to Daniela's place, I feel at home in this amazing nation that has welcomed and supported me for the past month!
Sunday morning, day of the Main Event: Diego of GRUPO CICLO-VIdA picks me at dawn and leads me to the departing point...
... an other amazing cyclist, Diego ties a small band to my frame for good luck: it reads "Llena de Vida", full of life!
It is still early, but riders are starting to arrive for the Cicloton, the ride that will see us circle the city on a route closed to traffic before arriving at the GEPDA stand.
... more riders of all ages are arriving and eager to get started!
The municipality has set up these "Refueling stations" along the route and we grab a quick snack before taking off...
Here comes Kodiak, leader of GRUPO-CICLO VIdA, with his best friend in tow!
Isn't this a great rig or what?! I know I want one!
An other great friendship is born: we share a love for cycling, animals and community outreach...
... so Kodiak and I vow to work together in the future setting up a Mexican adventure for the benefit of GEPDA. I am now a proud member of GRUPO CICLO-VIdA!
Kodiak's dog Shatzee takes a break from the doggie trailer and smiles happy as...
... federal and state officials welcome the riders and announce more plans for cycling paths throughout the city...
...we are off! This kid brought his own puppy in a milk crate strapped on his bike...
... while this athlete joins us on a state of the art arm ergometer that flies at incredible speed!
Dogs jog obiedently next to the riders and the atmosphere is festive and peaceful with great latin beats blasted by local radio stations that have set up shop at the main intersections...
... I drop back to take a couple of pics of the Peloton and...
... notice that many bystanders are starting to gather...
... as more riders pass me on their way to the arrival point.
Dani snaps this pic of the group arrival: after a great morning of cycling we are now here to support GEPDA's efforts to say No More Animal Abuse in Mexico!
GEPDA has organized an outstanding event...
... setting up beautifully and...
... handing out top notch educational material that spans from...
... education on the importance of spay & neutering, to literature against animal abuse whether it is about companion animals, farmed animals or wild life.
"Come on, pick up a coupon... make a donation, help us save more lives!"
"Don't eat me. I have feelings too!"
"The circus is cruel" and "Pepe the bull is innocent!", educate the public against using animals as a form of entertainment. Unfortunately, the Spanish heritage is alive and well in Mexico when it comes to the "Corrida de toros."
"Hey, this is so cool! I am having a blast, lets do it again some time!"
People are stopping by and inquiring about the programs...
"Change lanes and move around by bike."
"... That'all he is carrying...?!"
Daniela Buenfil of GEPDA (with her puppy Matilde) who opened her house to me and is one of the most dedicated animal advocates I know.
"Whohoo! More people, lets party!"
One final interview with the local media to talk about GEPDA's strategy to shut down puppy mills, promote spay & neutering, adoption and education. Afterwards, I chat with Ana Karla Pèrez of GEPDA, whom I met last year in Costa Rica at a WSPA conference. We stayed in touch, she offered assistance and then worked hard to set up this whole event! Gracias, Karla!
As we prepare to wrap the whole thing up the overall feeling is that the event was successful as far as generating awareness about the conditions of animals in Mexico...
... still, there is so much work to do that GEPDA and its dedicated team of volunteers will need all the help they can get. "Don't forget the homeless pets of Mexico" is the farewell I hear over and over...
Final group shot of the GEPDA Team: seated below my front rim are Daniela and Ana Karla who have my forever gratitude for my wonderful stay in the capital city.
The cyclists are starving! We are off to prowl the city looking for chow!
We find a nice sidewalk cafè, where we can keep an eye on the bikes...
... set up the pups in the shade with some water and food...
... then proceed to demolish the buffet while enjoying a great band. Note to restaurateurs: do not offer an all you can eat deal to famished cyclists!
Home made stroller!
Final shot of the day with the GRUPO CICLO-VIdA: guys, you are an inspiration to cyclists the world over! Riding with you was an honor. Stay safe and "Buena suerte, compañeros" wherever you go!
After extolling the beauty of Mexico for the past 28 days, I am now ready to show you the flip side of the coin: the country where the "Compañeros de nadie" live.
Millions of "Companions to none" who struggle to survive. Stay tuned...
In the outskirts of Mexico City, where the poor live in shantytowns originally illegally built and now grandfathered in, millions of humans and animals struggle to survive...
...often existing, but not living...
... this is where the neglected, the slighted, the homeless...
... do their very best to simply survive...
... like these puppies dropped off alive at the city dump and left to die, but rescued by a kind soul and kept going by a vet that volunteers his time...
... in a nation where animals are routinely sold on street corners, many are bought on impulse then returned to the streets when the "Cute factor" has expired...
... so in the very same country where city bikes are made available to the public for a few dollars a month and...
... that offers free WiFi in the downtown areas...
... or where you can shop for an immaculately restored vintage Vespa scooter...
... you constantly witness sadness and pain...
... abuse and neglect, with animals routinely treated as objects or locked up and forgotten, often left to starve before being euthanised with inhumane methods...
... and yet, not matter how many times they get kicked in the face by life, these guys keep going, making the most of what very little they have...
... hoping that one day someone will extend a helping hand...
... like Jonas, neglected for years in a junk yard and now on its way to his new life, thanks to Maricarmen of GEPDA...
...or Matilde, who bounced back from illness and abuse, to thrive in Daniela's home...
... still, for every one of these happy endings there are hundreds of horrific cases.
I chose not to load the "tough pics", the ones so horribly violent that assault your senses and leave you empty inside, wondering why...
As I leave Ciudad de Mexico, pedaling towards Puebla and the snow of this dormant volcano...
... I reflect on what I have witnessed and urge you to view this documentary:
"Companions to none"
It is extremely graphic and will show you what I can't bring myself to do...
... denounce the horrors that developing nations can so casually inflict on their animals, innocent creatures demanding nothing while always giving all...
So, as I slowly coast through beautiful colonial neighborhoods, I ask myself how can a culture that builds this...
... and this...
... or this...
... allow this smack in the middle of Mexico City?
Here, Pippo the lion withers away in the parking lot of a restaurant...
... a ghost in a circus like setting. As I quickly snap these pictures before the owner sees me and throws me out, I am overcome with sadness...
Later, I hang out with Maricarmen of GEPDA who snuck me in to steal the images of Pippo. She builds beautiful hand painted cruisers in her home and...
... while I admire her amazing work, she pours her heart out to me unloading years of sorrow and frustrations: being an animal advocate in Mexico ain't easy!
Time for me to leave: once again Diego of CICLO VIdA escorts me towards the freeway, quite a ride since Mexico City spans over 60 kilometers east to west. Saying goodbye is always hard. The brotherhood of the road makes it easy to connect to fellow cyclists and after having shared a portion of the trail, it is always with great sadness that you continue on your own.
After we bang our fists "Adiós!", Diego gives me his reflective vest to keep me safe on the road...
Outside of Puebla, on the way to Cordoba, I am putting the sadness of what I saw in the big city behind. Still, even in these rural areas people struggle to make a living and when life is hard for humans, companion animals always come last...
I am ready to drop at a lower altitude because all the riding between 5K and 9K feet of the last few weeks, pedaling uphill in a slightly hypoxic state that feels like your head is clamped in a vise, is starting to get to me...
Here, I enter the Fog Area. I had done my research so my road book clearly showed it and I made sure I arrived at midday when conditions are ideal...
... as I plunge into the dense soup, the road starts descending and my speed rapidly increases until, on a particularly fast stretch, I hit...
... 71 kilometers per hour, the fastest I have ever gone on a bike. I pray my spokes will hold and unclip the inside foot in the corners...
... so that I can swing my knee out like an outrigger, stabilizing the bike and leaning deeper into the turns while countersteering motorcycle style...
... once out of the valley, the fog clears out and I blast at 40 kms/hr on a positive false flat aided by a strong tail wind. The rebel controlled area of the Chiapas looms ahead.
Leaving Cordoba towards Vera Cruz: the road is once again bathed in a cold fog that chills me to the bone...
Outside of the city limits nature appears beautifully pristine with wide open spaces in between the scarce farm houses...
... where farmed animals work hard to sustain their fellow humans.
After crossing many rivers just like this one and...
... riding by quaint farm settings, I finally reach Cusamaloapan where I make a bee line for the nearest restaurant because I am starving...
At La Ventana Restaurant in the "Centro" of town I enjoy a phenomenal gourmet meal courtesy of Comandante David Rojas Hoyos of the Policia Federale, who invites me to sit with him, picks up my tab and gifts me an official hat of the Federal Police pledging his support for the ride and offering police assistance should I run into an unforseen snag.
"Muchas gracias, Comandante! Meeting you was an honor and I appreciate your offer of assistance. On behalf of all the furry wanderers and all the animal lovers of Mexico I thank you."
Tomorrow I will keep heading south. The landscaping is starting to look a lot more tropical: gone are the pine trees of the sierras and there is a new, sweet scent of freshly cut flowers in the air...
I am now entering the sugar cane region of Mexico. Temperature and humidity are starting to raise and soon I am pedaling in 80 degrees F...
... the landscape reminds me of the Florida Everglades and the locals have the same exact complaints about Big Sugar: slave wages and pollution of the rivers are not endearing the sugar companies to the local "campesinos"...
... in a country where 30% of the population lives under conditions of extreme poverty...
... many people are fleeing the countryside for the capital in search of a better future. Referred to as "Paratroopers" because they land, put up an illegal shack and never leave...
... Mexico's poorest people struggle to survive. These kids ran over to greet me as I approached the freeway where they make a living washing windshields...
... I give the children all my "Pesos", wave "Adiós" and ride over to the military check point to inquire about cycling on this road...
"It's technically illegal", says the guard, "but we were expecting you and you are welcome on our road..." Sweet! I am almost tempted to detour to Cancun, but it is an extra 1,000 kms...
Instead, I turn back southwest and pedal towards Tuxtla Gutierrez hoping that I will find an hotel that takes plastic, since I left all my cash with the kids who needed it a lot more than me.
I stop on the side of the road to check the map and gulp down some water. As I approach the Chiapas, I can't help but compare the current struggle with the more recent revolution led by Emiliano Zapata who, in 1910, led the charge to overthrow the federal government demanding better conditions for the poor. Today, exactly 100 years later, the natives of the Chiapas region stir with unrest, led by the Sub Comandante Marcos of the Ejército Zapatista de Liberación Nacional. Marcos has reached legendary status here forcing the government into recognizing some of the demands of the natives who refer to him as the "Che" of Mexico, providing him with shelter and support. Political differences aside, history teaches that when a people is pushed too far, violence often erupts...
Back on the road I am now riding in a very tropical setting. The air is thick with humidity and it feels like I am pushing through a curtain of water. I climb a steep hill to get a better view of the area...
... the vibe is peaceful and sleepy with people fishing off their docks or scrubbing small wooden canoes...
... I stop for a snack and spot a couple of feral dogs hiding in the tall grass on the side of the road...
... it takes a long time, but, finally, they accept a few cookies...
In the mid afternoon I catch up with this rider and hitch a ride behind him. He moves at a fast clip, but the drafting effect allows me to keep up while taking a break...
... I am still "Flat Free" since Kanab, but he wasn't so lucky. We changed the tube and were back on the bikes in a snap...
As the light starts to fade, I feel totally drained by almost 10 hours of nonstop riding. I spot a motel and...
... ride through the open front doors all the way to the desk without unclipping or dismounting. $35 later I am under the hot shower...
On the way to Tuxtla Gutierrez, capital of the state of Chiapas...
... this is a very rural state where, due to its proximity with the Guatemalan border, Mayan history and culture are predominant...
... roadside kiosks display colorful merchandise and people here are extremely gentle and polite...
... inquiring about the ride and immediately relaying an animal story, some times happy some times sad, upon learning of why I am traveling through their home land.
... as I leave the state of Tabasco (yep, that's where your hot sauce comes from) and enter Chiapas, I decide to...
... detour through the hills and discover the land of the "Campesinos" that labor in the countryside...
... here I run into an army patrol that warns me against proceeding further and taking pictures of military personnel or installations. All the soldiers wear face masks to protect their identities...
... but, upon learning that I am a former NATO officer, they show me a hidden valley and allow one shot of a small outpost where...
... we grab some chow before I shoulder my bike and climb back towards a side road that, if I understood the directions correctly, should lead me back to the main highway...
... as I struggle uphill carrying the bike, the cross tube is wearing a blister the size of a fried egg on my right shoulder...
... it's well worth it, though. Just look at this view...
... this lake is stunningly beautiful, a pristine environment where I instantly feel at peace...
... there is nobody around and I sit on an old dock catching my breath...
... wondering where I could end up if I took this boat and followed the shore...
... instead I pedal on. Get caught throwing garbage here and the fine is calculated by multiplying minimum wage times 90!
... the long detour set me back about 4 hours and I still have about 100 clicks left to reach Tuxtla...
... night is fast approaching, so I switch on the lights and don the reflective vest that Diego gave me in Mexico City...
... soon it's pitch black and, descending towards Tuxtla, I spot this stray on the side of the road. I can't just leave her there, so I fashion a long lead with a bungee cord and bring her to a truck stop where I find out that she belongs to one of the guys that fix tires. He doesn't seem too concerned and this is exactly the kind of irresponsible ownership that organizations like GEPDA, Aliac and McKee are trying to modify.
... by the time I reach the city I have been on the road for almost 17 hours, covering about 200 kilometers. This clean room feels like heaven right now...
I am up at dawn and negotiate traffic towards the highway. By 8.30am it is already 80 degrees Farenheit, so leaving early is critical...
... today I only have 87 kilometers to cover in order to reach San Cristobal de las Casas, which rests at a slightly higher elevation than Tuxtla...
... it's a steady climb and by midmorning we are well into the 90s. My electro drink tastes like warm, salty soup...
... the views are simply beautiful, though, and, as I get higher and higher, a cool breeze helps a little...
... behind those hills is the Guatemalan border, about two days of riding away...
... one last ramp takes me to the top...
... San Cristobal is nestled in a narrow valley surrounded by pretty hills with lots of hiking trails and watering holes...
... just outside of town I spot these wild horses drinking from a roadside well...
... they are beautiful and I watch them for a few minutes while I catch my breath. They are also totally unfazed by my presence.
In the centre of town I down some freshly squeezed orange juice...
... then cruise Main Street and grab a room at one of the "Posadas" before...
... getting lost in the maze of narrow roads of the "Centro historico"...
The Mexican leg of C4S almost over, I get ready to leave San Cristobal and pedal towards the border. This old mission sits smack in the middle of town and, with its beat up walls and worn wooden doors, brings you back to a time when Spanish soldiers marched up and down the cobblestone alleys.
In the morning, I pedal towards the outskirts of town which are quietly rural and...
... as I start climbing in the direction of the Palenque Reserve, I catch the first glimpse of today's uphill ride...
... breakfast is a fresh handmade tortilla and then I am off...
... this is a protected area deep into Chiapas and I can only wish I had the time to hang around for a week or two to really explore it...
... instead I skirt its perimeter...
... go through a couple of deep canyons then...
... reach the summit and start...
... the fast descent towards Comitan. From there it is a straight shot to the border...
... I am starting to develop an obsession for these rigs... I think I need one to stroll around town and deliver supplies to the spay & neutering clinics held by the McKee Project...
... downtown Comitan has beautiful sculptures that celebrate the local culture...
... it is the last real city of Chiapas...
... I blast trough town, then jump on the cycling path of the Interamericana Highway and head south...
... there is no traffic whatsoever so the riding is smooth and relaxed...
... the road snakes through the hills with a series of fast, easy sweepers that put a grin on my
face...
... as I ride by all sorts of animals resting peacefully on the side of the road...
... a few kilometers from the border: I had not planned on crossing this afternoon, but it is still early so I decide to go for it...
... Guatemala is behind this last turn...
... after 6 weeks and 4,680 Kilometers I have now crossed Mexico: no flats, no crashes, no injuries. So far this ride has only yielded positive experiences. In Mexico I made many new friends and I know that I shall be back some day.
On the Mexican side of the border I am able to replenish my cash at an ATM machine, then I cross the street to the Guatemalan side and obtain a 3 month visa to enter the country...
... changing dollars into Quetzales is as easy as spotting a black market operator and making the transaction right in the street, a couple of yards away from the customs office!
The first thing I notice about Guatemala are the flowers, the colors are bright as only in the tropics and...
... I fill my eyes with the beauty of nature...
... admiring the stunning views of the volcanoes that line the horizon...
... but, sadly, also with the garbage scattered all over the place. Guatemala is much poorer than Mexico and was ravaged by 36 years of a civil war that left scars that have not yet completely healed.
On this side of the border the road is narrow with virtually no shoulder and it is not unusual to come around a bend and...
... find yourself face to face with a truck occupying your entire lane and coming straight at you...
I receive many warnings from different people about cyclists being assaulted while on the road, but, as I leave the border area, I make no unpleasant encounters and feel comfortable continuing the ride...
... I am also immediately aware that there are a lot more dogs running around and, with rabies being a very serious public health issue here, you have to be a little more cautious when approaching a furry friend...
... still, I'm getting the vibe that I am going to like it here...
I spot a cozy motel and decide to call it a day...
... to get to my room I have to go through the "Tire repair station" and the mechanics are surprised that, being from Italy, I am running German tires...
... instead of Italian ones!
Note: I am currently chilling in Costa Rica and will continue to update this until the entire log of the ride is posted. Please call back soon. Gracias and Adiòs 4 now!
Davide.
We believe that C4S stands for a lot more than just promoting spay and neuter. We strive to bring a message of hope to communities in developing nations: respect for the environment, sustainability, fair trade, animal welfare and a healthy lifestyle.
In the end, if we don't help the community, we won't be able to help its strays. Only by promoting a healthier, more livable environment for all its denizens - of both the 2 and 4 legged kind - we will succeed in making the ultimate difference.
Please support the companies that have chosen to support C4S! All of us together can jump start a positive circle of change that will ultimately become the community's new circle of life.
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